What insights do fashion trends such as ‘office siren’ and ‘girlhood’ offer into the societal norms and expectations placed on women?

Between the transitional period from spring to fall in 2024, Sandy Liang’s clientele made a notable shift from the ethereal allure of sheer lace babydoll dresses to the more sophisticated matching skirt suits, embodying the emerging trend of the ‘office siren.’ This evolution in style prompts fashion critics to ponder the trajectory of Liang’s designs, especially following the previous year’s proliferation of her signature bows, rosettes, and themes evoking “girlhood.” The question arises: What direction will Liang take next?

In the latest runway showcase, Liang presented models adorned in attire suitable for the office environment, showcasing a range of professional looks. While this signifies Liang’s artistic growth, her transition between collections serves as a microcosm of a broader societal phenomenon. Recent women’s fashion trends seem to reflect and even expose the socioeconomic expectations imposed on women within the frameworks of patriarchy and capitalism. The question remains: Are we participants in this narrative or merely subjects to its implications?

Fashion and societal expectations
Andrea Edelman/Vogue

The dominance of the ‘girlhood’ trend was palpable in 2023, characterized by influences from literary and cinematic references like Lolita and The Virgin Suicides, as well as designers such as Simone Rocha and Molly Goddard, known for their whimsical and feminine creations. This era celebrated tenderness, urging women to embrace their femininity and sensitivity. However, the trend took a concerning turn with the emergence of gimmicky concepts like “girl math” and “girl dinner,” descending into gender essentialism and inadvertently promoting self-infantilization among women, thus perpetuating patriarchal notions regarding labor roles. Daisy Alioto, CEO of Dirt Media, notes the potentially insidious political undercurrents inherent in the superficial discourse of reclaiming femininity.

The transition from the ‘girlhood’ trend to the ‘office siren’ aesthetic underscores a nuanced exploration of femininity within contemporary fashion. While the former celebrated softness and vulnerability, the latter embraces assertiveness and professionalism. However, amidst these shifts, there remains a critical examination of the societal expectations placed on women, both in terms of appearance and behavior. As fashion continues to serve as a mirror to cultural attitudes and norms, it is imperative to engage in nuanced conversations that interrogate the underlying implications of these trends on gender dynamics and power structures.