Chanel Holds Steady Without Chief Designer

“After Virginie Viard’s exit, the luxury brand’s studio team showcased timeless tweeds and neat silhouettes in their first show.”

Chanel’s recent haute couture show in Paris was a dazzling display of bouclé-tweed suits in colors like pistachio and raspberry, and models with flowing blond ponytails and satin shoes with pearl heels. The front row was star-studded, featuring celebrities like Keira Knightley and Michelle Williams at the Palais Garnier opera house. Despite the array of classic Chanel handbags and a stunning bridal gown with an ivory silk train, one key element was missing: a designer to close the show.

Since Virginie Viard, who took over Chanel following Karl Lagerfeld’s death five years ago, left the brand suddenly this month, Chanel has been without a lead designer. This vacancy has become a hot topic at Paris Fashion Week. However, the collection, put together by Chanel’s studio team, did not show signs of decline. Haute couture, where dresses can cost around £100,000, is not just a costly marketing strategy for Chanel but a profitable venture with a loyal customer base.

The collection stayed true to Chanel’s iconic style with shimmering metallic tweed, clean lines, sophisticated colors, and an elegant, youthful look. The designs catered well to modern tastes, including those of clients from cultures that prefer modest fashion, with many outfits featuring long capes and full-length skirts instead of short dresses.

Despite the absence of a creative director, Chanel’s success doesn’t seem to be waning. Owned by the Wertheimer family, whose fortune is massive, Chanel can afford to take its time in choosing a new designer. Yet, with the fashion industry constantly evolving—highlighted by Alessandro Michele gearing up for his debut show with Valentino and Givenchy also missing a designer—a fresh creative leader could keep Chanel relevant.

Speculations are rife about who will take over. Hedi Slimane, known for his impactful fashion statements and currently with Celine, is a favored candidate. Lagerfeld himself was a fan of Slimane’s work. Another potential but unlikely candidate is Phoebe Philo, known for her modern design sense and strong personal brand, although she has just launched her own label.

This moment comes during a broader shakeup in the industry where high-profile shifts are happening, such as Sean McGirr taking over at Alexander McQueen. If Chanel chooses a male designer to replace Viard, it may spark further discussions on the lack of women in top fashion roles.

Re-reported from the article originally published in The Guardian.