Elsa Peretti: The Woman Who Shaped Modern Jewellery Design

“Style is to be simple.” – Elsa Peretti

Elsa Peretti, born on May 1, 1940, in Florence, Italy, is celebrated as one of the most influential jewelry designers of the 20th century. Her revolutionary use of silver transformed how we perceive fine jewelry, making elegance more accessible. Her journey from a privileged upbringing in Italy to a world-renowned designer is a story of creativity, strength, and groundbreaking innovation.

Peretti’s path to design was unconventional. After studying in Rome and Switzerland, she initially became a French teacher and ski instructor in Switzerland. In 1964, her life took a new turn when she began modeling in Barcelona. Four years later, she moved to New York, becoming part of the “Halstonettes,” models favored by designer Halston. It was this fashion scene that would ignite her passion for jewelry.

In 1969, Peretti designed her first piece, a simple sterling silver pendant inspired by a flea market find. Its success in a Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo fashion show marked the beginning of her jewelry career. Peretti had a unique ability to transform everyday objects like beans, bones, and teardrops into wearable art, using silver as her preferred medium—an unconventional choice at the time.

In 1974, Peretti partnered with Tiffany & Co., where her designs, including the famous “Bean,” “Open Heart,” and “Bone Cuff,” became instant classics. Her creations not only exuded beauty but were also comfortable and sensual, designed to complement the natural form of the body. She played a key role in making fine jewelry more approachable and popular with younger, independent women.

Beyond her design achievements, Peretti was a philanthropist, founding the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation to support causes like environmental conservation and human rights. She also restored the village of Sant Martí Vell in Catalonia, Spain, which became her sanctuary.

Peretti faced challenges in a male-dominated industry, but her vision and determination helped her break barriers, leaving an indelible mark on modern jewelry design. Her work is now exhibited in prestigious museums, including the British Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.

Elsa Peretti passed away on March 18, 2021, at 80, but her legacy lives on. Her designs continue to inspire new generations of jewelry makers and wearers alike.

From a young girl in Florence to a global design icon, Elsa Peretti’s life story reminds us that with passion, hard work, and a unique vision, we can all leave our mark on the world. Whether you’re wearing one of her timeless designs or simply admiring them, remember the incredible woman who dared to see the extraordinary in the ordinary and changed the world of jewelry forever.

Bidisha Ghosh, Staff Reporter