Naomi Campbell: Overcoming Racism to Fashion Icon
In 1987, photographer Patrick Demarchelier captured an iconic image of supermodel Naomi Campbell wearing a stunning gold Chanel jacket in the desert. This photo graced the cover of British Vogue’s December issue, marking only the third time a black woman had been featured on the magazine’s cover. The National Portrait Gallery obtained this photograph in 2016, and it now forms part of a special exhibition at the V&A, celebrating Campbell’s extraordinary career.
During the 1980s and 1990s, seeing women with darker skin tones in mainstream media was rare. Campbell’s Vogue cover was groundbreaking because the fashion industry then believed that black models couldn’t sell magazines. This milestone marked the beginning of Campbell’s trailblazing career.
Fashion expert Michaela Angela Davies notes that Campbell challenged the belief that black models were just a passing trend and became a lasting and influential figure in the fashion world.
The V&A exhibition titled “Naomi” is unique because it focuses on a model rather than a designer, illustrating how models shape fashion culture. Developed in collaboration with Campbell herself, the exhibition showcases her wardrobe, designer collections, and items from the V&A’s own collection, spanning her 40-year career and activism.
The exhibition begins with Campbell’s early life and her aspiration to become a dancer before being discovered at age 15 in 1985. Her debut runway show was for Yves Saint Laurent in 1987, and the exhibition includes her entry pass for that show and her worn ballet shoes. Visitors can view video clips of Campbell’s memorable runway appearances for designers such as Anna Sui, Chanel, and Prada.
Campbell credits Yves Saint Laurent with propelling her career forward, recalling that he once threatened to withdraw his advertisements from French Vogue due to their exclusion of black models from their covers.
The exhibition also addresses contemporary issues of diversity in the fashion industry. Campbell pays tribute to pioneering black models like Iman and Beverly Johnson, who paved the way for her success. She hopes that her career will inspire future generations of diverse models.
This exhibition celebrates Naomi Campbell not only as a supermodel but also as a cultural icon who shattered racial barriers, supported emerging talent, and advocated for equality. As one of the first black supermodels to achieve global fame, Campbell’s success has contributed to better representation of diverse models in fashion. The exhibition highlights the glamour and transformative impact of her illustrious career.
Re-reported from the article originally published in SheThePeople.
