Sustainable Fabric Choices

Fashion’s Sustainability Efforts: A Critical Evaluation

Fashion has undertaken various initiatives to curb its environmental impact in recent years. In 2018, leading brands committed to achieving net-zero emissions by 2050 under the United Nations’ Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action. Despite such pledges, a report by UN Climate Change and CDP reveals that only 45% of Fashion Charter signatories have set targets in line with limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius. The focus on relative targets, especially in the supply chain’s indirect emissions (scope 3), can allow absolute greenhouse gas emissions to rise, counteracting efforts.

Major brands like Chanel and Kering are targeting reductions, but their approaches reveal complexities. For instance, Chanel aims to decrease emissions by 40% by 2030 across its supply chain per unit sold, resulting in only around a 10% absolute reduction. In contrast, Kering’s emissions increased by 12% in 2022 compared to 2021. The supply chain, where fashion’s substantial impact lies, demands more significant action.

While some progress is noted in scope 1 and 2 emissions (owned and controlled by companies), a substantial focus on supply chain emissions is crucial. The need for absolute emissions reduction gains urgency, and some companies are embracing this challenge. Kering committed to reducing absolute emissions by 40% by 2035, encompassing indirect emissions across the supply chain. A just transition is emphasized to ensure fair treatment of garment workers amid industry transformations.

However, the adoption of lower-impact materials remains a challenge. The industry is falling short of the required 45% reduction in the footprint of raw materials and fibers by 2030 to align with the 1.5 degrees Celsius pathway of the Paris Agreement. The lack of clear definitions for sustainable materials contributes to brands overstating progress. Brands like Chloé exemplify substantial strides in adopting lower-impact materials, emphasizing the pivotal role of materials in reducing emissions.

Circular business models, such as resale and rental, have gained traction, yet these initiatives are at a pilot stage and face challenges in scaling. The report underscores that the fashion industry is not doing enough to address the climate crisis. Maxine Bédat, director of New Standard Institute, emphasizes the necessity of absolute reduction targets and advocates for legislative measures to ensure goal fulfillment. The industry’s sustainability journey demands intensified efforts, genuine commitments, and holistic strategies.

_{Repurposed article originally published in Vogue}