Dhaka Muslin: Lost Art of Fabric Production

Image credit: Drik/ Bengal Muslin

Centuries ago, Dhaka muslin was the world’s most prized fabric, known for its incredible softness and fine quality. Originating in Dhaka, now in Bangladesh, it was made from a special type of cotton found along the Meghna River. This fabric was so delicate that a piece 300 feet long could pass through a ring, and a 60-foot piece could fit into a tiny snuffbox. It was highly sought after in ancient Greece and cherished by Mughal emperors.

Called “baft-hawa” or “woven air” for its lightness, Dhaka muslin amazed travelers with its thinness. In Europe, it caused a sensation in the late 1700s by replacing heavy dresses with light “chemise gowns.” Despite its popularity among royalty like Marie Antoinette, Dhaka muslin disappeared by the early 1900s due to lost techniques and the extinction of its unique cotton.

Production started with Phuti karpas plants, which produced short, easily frayed fibers perfect for hand-weaving. The process involved many steps, including cleaning the cotton with boal catfish jawbones and spinning the fibers in humid conditions on boats. Designs were intricately woven into the fabric, creating detailed patterns.

Today, efforts are underway to revive Dhaka muslin. Researchers are identifying similar cotton plants and growing them near the Meghna River. They are making hybrid muslin saris blending traditional and modern techniques. These efforts are supported by Bangladesh’s government to bring back this historic fabric and showcase the country’s cultural heritage.

With continued support, the hope is to produce pure Dhaka muslin with even higher quality than before, preserving its legacy for future generations and celebrating Bangladesh’s rich textile history on the world stage.

Re-reported from the article originally published in SheThePeople.